Sigma has published the following video that shows you how to use the software.Īs you can see, it is very straightforward. In the case of the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 lens, the only customizations you can do are focus adjustments. You can update lens firmware or use other customization options. Just plug in your lens and the software immediately recognizes it. Just go to Sigma’s website here, pick your OS and download away. The software is free to download and you don’t need a special password or license code (Thanks for making that easy Sigma). The dock works in conjunction with Sigma Optimization Pro software, which is built for configuring Sigma’s new line of lenses. For users without this ability, the USB dock is the only resource for making the lens usable short of shipping it off to Sigma. I’m using a Canon 60D with it, so I don’t have the ability to make AF micro-adjustments in-camera. Thankfully, Sigma also sent along its USB control dock so I could calibrate the lens. It was way off at 18mm and a little off at 24mm and 35mm. I pulled it out of the box a couple days ago and was immediately disappointed with the front focusing. No surprises tripod seems to make a big different in general, so it can also be my technique.I received the new Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 lens this week for testing. You might be right I just need to use it below 600, put it onto a tripod today and used self timer, OS turned off, this was a few hundred feet away I think its about 3 houses away Purposely focus a little behind then a little in front of the target.Īgain, probability means you just have to use your lens as a 150-550. Shoot a target with elements behind and in front of the target so you can see if there is anywhere in focus. The original Canon 100-400 was found to be good up to around 370 to 380mm for many, but not all owners.Īssuming you can clearly see your lens won't produce good results over 550mm you can test a little more. Some lenses, it's just some copies of the lens that have the problem. Some lenses have this as a feature, just not as severe as your lens seems to be. It's a common issue with telephoto zooms. Probability means your lens is not great at 600mm. Just point at a stationary subject and try 500mm, 525mm, 550mm, 575mm and 600mm. If you can get results lower than 550 that's all you need to confirm.ĭon't wait for another airshow. There is no sudden hump over 550mm where you need to triple your shutter speed. You don't need any lessons, other than how to check your lens and you have mostly done that too. The one at 324mm is still not perfect but usable, my Canon 70-200 L was sharper than this 324mm from the Sigma I'm beginning to think I should have just bit the bullet and got the Canon 100-400 L which is what I wanted to getĮxample off what I'm getting, this image is at 600mm the next one is at 324mm both 100% crop Various Manfrotto, Portaflash, Battery Grips, SanDisk & Lowepro Waiting for a clear day to try and start calibration with the dock, I'm considering the SpyderLensCal target thing as I just printed a test target and it looks a bit fuzzy with my old laser printerĪpple: CS3, Aperture & iPhoto. I used a tripod for a few minutes then switched to handheld for the rest of the show, so again it could be user error. Must admit I forgot to try the IS mode mode 2 for panning but I don't know if it would be that as pics at 500mm look good to me. I was also wondering is it my camera body just not keeping up, I'm running a 5D2 and it was in AI servo but perhaps its not up to the task tracking object at 200-400 mph Really that was going to be my next question what is considered infinity in terms of distance, I guess 600 meter might be a good starting point. Was just assuming it was back or front focusing. Shots under 600 mm are sharp just like the should be. Interesting, what I seem to be seeing is the pics at 600mm they seem almost like I used a cheap lens its all a little blurry and purple edges almost like a bad soft lens. I’d be interested in hearing about your experience. I think it’s because once you’re focusing out that far, the DOF is pretty wide and you’re close to the hyperfocal distance, so small focus changes aren’t that noticeable. I’ve always found it difficult to do AFMA with long slow zooms like that (I use the Sigma 100-400, which is f/6.3 at the long end). I also like to photograph at air shows, and I usually estimate the distance at around 400-600 yards/meters. Since placing a focus target an infinite distance away isn’t really practical, the next best thing is to pick a test target that’s somewhere around the distance of the planes you are shooting.
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